The $1.3 trillion fashion industry is making big bucks for manufacturers, retailers and brands – but exacting a heavy price from the planet. The phenonmenon known as “fast fashion” has created a must-have attitude towards the newest look and is responsible for garment output doubling from 50 billion to over 100 billion units over the last 15 years. Powered by celebrity styles and savvy social influencers, the feverish pace of mass scale garment production has exceeded demand. The availability of low-cost, accessible and disposable fashion has resulted in a drastic drop in the use of clothing post-purchase. Today, consumers wear only approximately 20-30% of what’s in their closets on a regular basis.
This “take, make, dispose” system is a part of the Linear economy, which works on the premise that raw materials are infinite. Excessive production of virgin raw materials for the textiles industry, namely cotton- and oil-based fibers, and more clothing disposed to landfills are causing catastrophic consequences to the planet and contributing to negative societal implications. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF), there is a staggering $500 billion loss of raw material value annually from postpurchase garments. So, it is no surprise that the fashion and textile industry is the number 1 polluter on the planet.
#NOTALLMANUFACTURERS
Luckily, all is not lost. Companies and brands globally have been developing a consciousness about their role in contributing to the future of the planet, and taking steps to transform the way they approach apparel production. Case in point – Hirdaramani Group.
Awakened by a sense of personal responsibility, after one of the Directors read Al Gore’s book “An Inconvenient Truth”, here’s how HIrdaramani Group changed routes, straying from the previously followed Linear economic view, one that assumes raw material resources are infinite for the taking, and adapting towards methodology that regenerates natural capital, renews energy and resources, and designs out pollution. This is the restorative system of Circular Fashion, which operates on the premise that resources are finite, and ensures zero waste by circulating all used and waste raw material back into input.
JEANS GOING GREEN
Hirdaramani joined hands with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in its mission to accelerate towards a Circular economy. More specifically, Hirdaramani Group has got onboard with the EMF’s project to make Jeans circular. It is a daunting task to change the way 2 billion pairs of jeans are made annually, but the premise of the project is to bring “traceability, durability and cyclability” to the lifecycle of a pair of jeans, by tackling issues of chemical use, labour practices and practicing zero waste to landfills.
The whole idea of circularity has sustainable design choices at its core. Around 80% of responsible decisions taken at the design stage effectively bring into market products that are better made, last longer and promote recycled material. Circularity also promotes mending and re-purposing, rather than disposing. It is vital that brands communicate with customers about the impact their fashion choices have on the environment and the ecosystems of the people who make the goods. This is what aligned Hirdaramani and its sustainability-driven customer Patagonia. Patagonia, a pioneer in low environmental impact clothing, offers customers lifetime products and the chance to exchange their old jeans for a new pair. The old pair will then be recycled or repurposed. H&M has started the initiative of giving customers 15% off their bill if they bring in old garments for recycling. This incentivizes customers to partake in the Circular economy as well.
RECYCLE FOR REUSE
Breaking the mold when it comes to ensuring sustainable business, Hirdaramani opened its Mihila factory in 2008, which is the first carbon-neutral production facility in Asia. Mihila has zero waste to landfill and marks the origins of recycling for the company. In addition to being carbon-neutral in its production, the factory also partners with collectors of cut waste who recycle them for reuse.
SAVING RESOURCES
Going beyond handpicked green initiatives, the company is ensuring circularity in all its operations by recycling polybags and cardboard, and supporting customers who request for biodegradable bags. Reducing water and chemical usage in its industrial laundries is a focus area. Hirdaramani’s circular-inspired, eco-friendly production techniques now use the equivalent of one glass of water to produce a pair of jeans, versus 50 liters previously. The company will soon recycle over 50% of the water used in the wash process, and use cutting-edge laser technology to produce fashion details on jeans. The company has been awarded several globally recognised certifications, including OEKO-TEX, ISO14001 and WRAP. For manufacturing and processing recycled and organic cotton, it holds OCS and RCS certifications. The national Green Award 2018 and the Responsible Care Award 2018 are among its prestigious achievements. Using technology also includes developing distributive ledger software to monitor the chain of custody.
UPCYCLING FOR THE GREATER GOOD
Sustainability is the need of the hour. Designer brands like Stella McCartney are now exploring upcycling to avoid products ending up in landfills. These upcycled products are redesigned and pushed back into the market for consumers who are both fashion and environmental conscious.
Hirdaramani’s involvement with the Mercedes-Benz fashion show in 2018 featured a collection on the runway of completely upcycled high-end denim streetwear. According to the company, circularity can take many forms – For example, it’s not just jeans going into jeans, but recycled yarn from jeans can even serve as raw material for another type of garment. Connections across the value network are what will make the Circular fashion initiative work. At Hirdaramani, change starts at home, and the family-based organization knows the importance of pivoting from a waste-intensive system of linear manufacturing, to a revolutionary new one. The business case for circularity is valid and is set to scale. It will take innovation, creativity and commitment to systemic change. As we face an informed consumer who values traceable, low environment impact products that are fairly made, there is a lot of organizational and process change to be adapted. Hirdaramani is optimistic in the power of creative, circular enterprise. It will continue to build a meaningful business future of restorative and regenerative manufacturing activities, for the planet and its people.