Bordered by the French Riviera to the north and Tuscany on the south, the Italian Riviera includes nearly all of the coastline of Liguria. Many internationally known villages and towns in the area like Portofino, Bordighera and Lerici have undergone facelifts and developments to cater to discerning tourists, but Cinque Terre retains its original charm.

Travelling to Cinque Terre (pronounced CHEEN|kweh TEHR|reh) by train from La Spezia – virtually the only access to the five villages – is like travelling back in time. Cinque Terre’s cobblestone streets and hillside vineyards tell stories of long ago when the local tribes moved back to the area after they had been driven out by the ruling Saracens. Raising their first houses in the area, they began turning the surrounding forest areas and steep slopes into cultivated terraces and planting vineyards, an industry the area is famed for today. Located by the Mediterranean Sea, the villages were susceptible to pirate attacks at the time, and dry stone walls and watchtowers, some of which are still standing, were built to guard them. Around this time, locals also began using the sea for commerce, trading and developing fishing as an industry.

Today, Cinque Terre looks the same. Many families occupying terraced hillside homes have lived in the area for generations. They are engaged in the same occupations as their ancestors like fishing or vine cultivation. Others have ventured into businesses like gelato and souvenir shops because hordes of tourists pour into the region during season.

[pullquote]Compared to the opulence offered at other world-famous coastal towns nearby , Cinque Terre offers a laidback and charming old country experience[/pullquote]

Since around the 12th century, Cinque Terre has become famous for its wines – two in particular, the eponymous Cinque Terre and Sciachetrà. In addition to wines, other popular local drinks include grappa, a brandy made with the pomace left from winemaking, and limoncello, a sweet liqueur flavoured with lemon.

Much of Cinque Terre’s charm lies in the lack of visible commercial development. Not accessible by car, apart from a few very narrow roads with parking areas more than a kilometre away from the village itself, footpaths, trains and boats connect the five villages to each other and to La Spezia.

Although most of the winding railway track along the coastline is through tunnels, it makes for a picturesque vista during the five minute train ride between each of the five. Perhaps the only development to the area is the hiking paths that link the villages. However, only two trails remain open now, the others being damage by landslides and storms.

Cinque Terre was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

Monterosso, the oldest of the five villages, was founded in AD643, when hill dwellers moved down to the coast to escape invaders. Vernazza came next, while Corniglia, Riomaggiore and Manarola grew later under the military and political supremacy of the Republic of Genoa.

One hour north of La Spezia, the central stopover to access Cinque Terre, is Riomaggiore, a fishing village with tall, narrow houses. An age-old local delicacy is deep fried seafood – everything from fish, prawns and cuttlefish to anchovies and mussels – and chips in a cone.

A short train ride from there will bring travellers to Manarola. Tourists and locals alike flock to this quaint village during summer to bathe in its crystal clear waters. The turquoise, yet freezing, water bordered by natural flat rocks also make it ideal for sunbathing. The brave few who dare to climb a steep rock at the center of the cove perform daredevil-type jumps into the water similar to Sri Lanka’s Galle Fort jumpers. If bathing is not the highlight of the day, holiday goers queue up to venture halfway down the walking path to Corniglia to capture an angle of the famed view of the pastel-coloured village from a distance.

Corniglia, the most understated of the five, is the only one resting 100m above sea level. The village is accessible from the train station either by a coach that arrives every 20 minutes or a flight of 383 stairs (yes, it was counted)! But once within the town, the narrow cobblestone paths are complimented by perfect Italian gelato – Corniglia’s specialty. Another delicacy here is a snack of cheese and honey, which is best served with rosè or white wine while watching the night fall, which occurs around 11.30pm every night.

The most talked about town, Vernazza is best visited at night for a walk along yellow-lit paths. Vernazza’s characteristic spots include a piazza right on the sea, the two-storey Gothic church dedicated to Santa Margherita of Antioch and the Doria Castle that was erected above the village to defend it against naval attacks back in the day.

The largest of the five, Monterosso is the only one with a long, sandy beach that caters best to tourists. It is also the only developed one in terms of (small-scale) restaurants and a promenade with a play area for kids.

Cinque Terre competes with the nearby Portofino and Amalfi Coast in south of Italy, where the rich and famous go to enjoy coastal pleasures. Compared to the opulence offered at both these towns, Cinque Terre offers a more laidback and charming old country experience for travellers.

With an ever-growing number of tourists to the area, the five villages have been thriving. Finding an abode in summer is a nightmare, so early reservation is a must. During other times, Cinque Terre is a clandestine town unaffected by the rest of the country and the world, and the perfect escape in seclusion. It is an area where days flow by like minutes, leaving you wondering where the time went.